I Am Snowblind

Smoky but cheap internet cafe on Gabelsbergerstra§e (yes you read that right) in Salzburg, 5.05pm

Too much snow! Too much excitement! It's WONDERFUL!

When last we spoke I was whingeing about the Italian transportation system, but I can safely say that I've left that well and truly behind and am now into the super organized and disturbingly efficient neck of the woods - Switzerland and Austria.

My train trip from Rome to Zurich (especially after Milan) was spectacular. I'd been having such a lovely time in Borghese Park in Rome, wallowing in the sunshine on Wednesday, that to be trundling along through the Gotthard Tunnel and right up there in the Alpine goodness of still-very-snowy Switzerland was just crazy! When we got quite high up and there was snow alongside the train I was practically licking the windows I was so thrilled. And the lakes! The lakes in Switzerland are stunning! Was almost relieved to arrive in Zurich because I was worn out with all the widened eyes and accelerated heartbeat.

Zurich was as opposite to Naples as it is possible to be. I was in Naples on Tuesday and 48 hours later I was in Zurich. One is the filthiest and dodgiest city I've ever seen. The other was clean and tidy and pretty and civilized. It was quite a bit colder though and threatening rain all weekend.

My lovely friend Sharon came over from London for a long weekend with me, so Thurs was craziness at the station trying to work out which train went to the airport so that I could meet her. (Useful word for anyone needing an airport in a German-speaking country: flughafen. Clearly.) Met her, fond reunion after not seeing one another for a year and a half, followed by a lovely bowl of pasta (better than anything I had in Italy) and a bottle of vino.

On Friday we headed for Lucerne, to swan about on the lake. Wow! Stunning! (I'm so sorry, after two and a half months of wow factors I've run out of adjectives.) It was like being in a postcard, like, do places like that actually exist? Apparently! We took a boat over to Vitznau and spent three hours next to the lake, in the sun, eating lunch and Swiss chocolate, dozing, taking photos, listening to absolutely nothing. Superb.

Caught the boat across to Beckenreid, but it was getting later and colder by this stage so we only jumped off for 5 minutes for some photos, then back across the lake to Lucerne.

Saturday we visited the Rhine Falls, largest waterfalls in Europe. I should point out that Europe isn't known for its waterfalls and its largest are certainly not quite on par with Niagara or Iguazu or the ones in Africa I can never remember the name of. Unfortunately it was also raining and we also saw the falls from the train and thought they must be a preview of the Larger and More Spectacular falls. So the falls were very pretty and it was a nice little excursion, but not quite as out-of-this-world as we thought they might be.

Went for a little wander round the shops back in Zurich, had to decide between buying a lovely new handbag or spending a night in Hotel Fox in Copenhagen. I'm going for the hotel. And for dinner - FONDUE! Yes, we fondid in Switzerland! The place we went was recommended by my guide book and it was certainly authentic - from the dark wood, dim lighting and Ye Anciente Cooke who made our bubbling pot of cheese. I've never had the real deal fondue before and it's....boozy! We just had bread to dunk and it was so rich. Afterwards our waitress said when she does it at home, she does it with water not wine. Did we get that option?! Slept well that night though!

Sunday EVERYTHING was shut. An excellent day to check out the Banhofstra§e, one of the world's most expensive shopping streets. So window shopped our way down to the river and back, checking out a few churches along the way. Walked to the gardens, lolled about there, wandered through their hothouses. It was so quiet because everything was shut, very old school Sunday vibe. Put Sharon back on the train to the flughafen and then went and packed for my train trip today.

Again today - SNOW! Somewhere between Switzerland and Innsbruck it all looked like cookies 'n' cream ice cream, all white with black bits (trees, rocks, etc). Arrived in Salzburg just before 4pm and made my way to my hostel, salivating over the snow on the hill where the castle appears to be and all the filthy snow on the ground around cars, bins, rooves, etc. SNOW! My trip is so awesome - I've got all three of my favourite things: gin and tonics, Barcelona and snow!

Speaking of my favourite things....! Oh yes! I am in THAT town where THAT movie was filmed and I'm going on THAT tour! The hills certainly are alive with the sound of strangled out of tune music!

SNOW!

PS Top two places in Europe for coffee (in my opinion): Portugal and Switzerland.